Hike the Swiss Alps in the Footsteps of Mark Twain
Weggis – Felsentor – Rigi Kaltbad – Rigi Staffel – Rigi Kulm
This is the charmingest place we have ever lived in, for repose & restfulness & superb scenery whose beauty undergoes a perpetual processional change from one miracle to another, yet never runs short of fresh surprises & new inventions. We shall always come here for the summers if we can.
– Mark Twain Letter to Joseph Twichell from Weggis, Switzerland, 31 July 1897
Follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain on this panoramic 10.4k mountain trail. This trail scales Mt Rigi, Switzerland’s Queen of Mountains. The trail isn’t overly difficult, with the steepest bit towards the end, but you will be rewarded with fabulous views throughout the entire 1,350-metre ascent.
This route was traditionally used to reach the summit, Rigi Kulm, from Weggis before Europe’s first mountain cogwheel railway was built in 1871. Writer Mark Twain describes the three-day climb in his book “A Trip to Mt. Rigi”. The ascent is at times quite steep and you will find eight informational boards where you can catch your breath and read about the author and his trip up Mt. Rigi. Along the way, you will hear cow bells and view cows, giant rocks, a beautiful little home on the mountain, and even a spa.
We stopped for a nice break at the spa before continuing to the peak. It has an amazing infinity pool where you can take in the views in true relaxation.
The trail begins in Weggis. If you are coming from Lucerne, I suggest traveling there by boat. It was a beautiful and relaxing way to start the morning. You can find the schedule online.
Immediately after disembarking in Weggis, head to the tourist booth at the docks and pick up a map. Always hike and travel with a paper map so you have a backup. You will immediately start heading uphill, towards the cable car station that takes guests up to Rigi Kulm. You then start heading uphill past the first farms at lower elevation. Make sure to look for a yellow “Wanderwag” sign to the right. It looks as though it goes through someone’s private garden (it kind of does). From here, it is very straightforward to follow the trail.
Once you get through here, the views start almost immediately. From here on out you will come across many cows. Listen for their cow bells and you know you are approaching.
The trail is well maintained, relatively even, and the views are abundant. Hiking poles aren’t necessary, but we did find one pole each to be helpful. A hat and suncreen are helpful, as much of the beginning of the hike is exposed. Once you work your way through this part, you will eventually reach some shade.
On the hike, you will continue up, cross a road briefly, come upon a quiet little church hidden on the mountaintop, find a quaint little cafe, and come across a gate that opens up to more cows.
When we reached Rigi Kaltbad, we stopped to enjoy the mineral bath. We packed swimsuits in our bags, since we didn’t need much hiking gear. We arrived at the spa, paid our entry fee, showered and relaxed in the warm mineral baths. You can take advantage of the beautiful views during your break.
From here, we finished the steepest part of the hike up to Rigi Kulm, where we enjoyed a packed lunch that we brought. You can also purchase food and drink up here as well. We continued to the summit, and the views were breathtaking.
We celebrated with a beer at the summit. It probably takes about 2-2.5 hours tops to walk back down, but since we already enjoyed the views, we took the cog train back down to the lake, and then hopped back on the boat to Lucerne – all covered with our Swiss Rail Pass.
